On the nature of large and rogue waves

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August 2014, 34(8): 3061-3093. doi: 10.3934/dcds.2014.34.3061

On the nature of large and rogue waves

1.	Department of Mathematics, Sungkyunkwan University, Suwon, Gyeonggi-do, South Korea

Received October 2012 Revised October 2013 Published January 2014

Abstract
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In this paper we discuss a model of large and rogue waves in non-necessarily shallow water. We assume that the relevant portion of the flow is restricted to a near-surface layer, assumption which enables us to use the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation. The shape and behavior of several types of waves predicted by some singular solutions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation is compared to the physical waves observed in the ocean.

Keywords: large wave, Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation., Rogue waves, freak waves.

Mathematics Subject Classification: 76B15, 76B25, 35Q35, 35Q5.

Citation: Mikhail Kovalyov. On the nature of large and rogue waves. Discrete & Continuous Dynamical Systems - A, 2014, 34 (8) : 3061-3093. doi: 10.3934/dcds.2014.34.3061

References:

[1]	S. Ackerman and M. Coslovich, 2011 Video,, in Riptide, 184* (2011). Google Scholar*
[2]	A. Grawin, 2004, , (). Google Scholar
[3]	G. Biondini, K. Maruno, M. Oikawa and H. Tsuji, Soliton interactions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and generation of large-amplitude waves,, Stud. Appl. Math., 122 (2009), 377. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-9590.2009.00439.x. Google Scholar
[4]	H. Chanson, Gallery of photographs,, (2010), (2010). Google Scholar
[5]	H. Chanson, D. Reungoat, B. Simon and P. Lubin, High-frequency turbulence and suspended sediment concentration measurements in the Garonne River tidal bore,, in Estuarine, 95 (2011), 298. Google Scholar
[6]	A. Constantin and R. S. Johnson, Propagation of very long water waves, with vorticity, over variable depth, with applications to tsunamis,, Fluid Dynamics Research, 40 (2008), 175. doi: 10.1016/j.fluiddyn.2007.06.004. Google Scholar
[7]	A. Constantin, The trajectories of particles in Stokes waves,, Inventiones mathematicae, 166 (2006), 523. doi: 10.1007/s00222-006-0002-5. Google Scholar
[8]	A. Constantin and J. Escher, Particle trajectories in shallow water waves,, Bulletin of the American Mathematical Society, 44 (2007), 423. doi: 10.1090/S0273-0979-07-01159-7. Google Scholar
[9]	A. Constantin and W. Strauss, Pressure beneath a Stokes wave,, Communications in Pure and Applied Mathematics, 63 (2010), 533. doi: 10.1002/cpa.20299. Google Scholar
[10]	B. V. Divinsky, B. V. Levin, L. I. Lopatikhin, E. N. Pelinovsky and A. V. Slyungaev, A freak wave in the Black sea: Observations and simulation,, Doklady, 395* (2004), 438. Google Scholar*
[11]	W. Dudley and M. Lee, Tsunami, 2nd edition, page 97,, University of Hawaii Press, (1998). Google Scholar
[12]	M. D. Earle, Extreme wave conditions during Hurricane Camille,, Journal of Geophysical Research, 80 (1975), 377. Google Scholar
[13]	K. Freeze, Monster waves threaten rescue helicopters,, in Proceedings of US Naval Institute, (): 246. Google Scholar
[14]	D. M. Graham, NOAA vessel swamped by rogue wave,, 284 (2000). The quote may also be found at , 284 (2000). Google Scholar
[15]	Y. S. Gutshabash and I. V. Lavrenov, Swell transformation in the Cape Agulhas current,, Izvestiya, 22 (1986), 494. Google Scholar
[16]	D. E. Irvine and D. G. Tilley, Ocean wave directional spectra and wave-current interaction in the Agulhas from the shuttle imaging radar-B synthetic aperture radar,, Journal of Geophysical Research, 93 (1988), 15389. Google Scholar
[17]	R. S. Johnson, A Modern Introduction to the Mathematical Theory of Water Waves,, Cambridge Univ. Press, (1988). doi: 10.1017/CBO9780511624056. Google Scholar
[18]	B. B. Kadomtsev and V. I. Petviashvili, On the stability of solitary waves in weakly dispersive media,, Sov. Phys. Dokl, 15 (1970), 539. Google Scholar
[19]	M. Kovalyov and I. Bica, Some properties of slowly decaying oscillatory solutions of KP,, Chaos, 25 (2005), 1979. doi: 10.1016/j.chaos.2004.11.054. Google Scholar
[20]	K. Mallory, Abnormal waves on the south-east of South Africa,, Inst. Hydrog. Rev., 51 (1974), 89. Google Scholar
[21]	M. Maxted, Photo,, in Riptide, 176 (2010), 88. Google Scholar
[22]	N. Mori, P. C. Liun and T. Yasuda, Analysis of freak wave measurements in the sea of Japan,, Ocean Engineering, 29 (2002), 1399. Google Scholar
[23]	D. Mouaze, H. Chanson and B. Simon, Field Measurements in the tidal bore of the Selune River in the Bay of Mont Saint Michel (September 2010),, in Hydraulic Model Report No. CH81/10, (2010), 246. Google Scholar
[24]	P. Peterson, T. Soomere, J. Engelbreight and E. van Groesen, Soliton interaction as a possible model for extreme waves in shallow water,, Nonlin. Proc. Geophys, 10 (2003), 503. Google Scholar
[25]	C. Rip, Tip 2 Tip - Seven Ghosts,, 2011, (). Google Scholar
[26]	Riptide, Riptide Internet journal,, 2010, (). Google Scholar
[27]	J. H. Simpson, N. R. Fisher and P. Wiles, Reynolds stress and TKE production in an estuary with a tidal bore,, Estuarine, 60 (2004), 619. Google Scholar
[28]	Videos, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AC2UXYK65Tc&feature=related,, 2010, (). Google Scholar
[29]	E. Wolanski, D. Williams, S. Spagnol and H. Chanson, Undular tidal bore dynamics in the daly estuary,, Estuarine, 60 (2004), 629. doi: 10.1016/j.ecss.2004.03.001. Google Scholar

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References:

[1]	S. Ackerman and M. Coslovich, 2011 Video,, in Riptide, 184* (2011). Google Scholar*
[2]	A. Grawin, 2004, , (). Google Scholar
[3]	G. Biondini, K. Maruno, M. Oikawa and H. Tsuji, Soliton interactions of the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili equation and generation of large-amplitude waves,, Stud. Appl. Math., 122 (2009), 377. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-9590.2009.00439.x. Google Scholar
[4]	H. Chanson, Gallery of photographs,, (2010), (2010). Google Scholar
[5]	H. Chanson, D. Reungoat, B. Simon and P. Lubin, High-frequency turbulence and suspended sediment concentration measurements in the Garonne River tidal bore,, in Estuarine, 95 (2011), 298. Google Scholar
[6]	A. Constantin and R. S. Johnson, Propagation of very long water waves, with vorticity, over variable depth, with applications to tsunamis,, Fluid Dynamics Research, 40 (2008), 175. doi: 10.1016/j.fluiddyn.2007.06.004. Google Scholar
[7]	A. Constantin, The trajectories of particles in Stokes waves,, Inventiones mathematicae, 166 (2006), 523. doi: 10.1007/s00222-006-0002-5. Google Scholar
[8]	A. Constantin and J. Escher, Particle trajectories in shallow water waves,, Bulletin of the American Mathematical Society, 44 (2007), 423. doi: 10.1090/S0273-0979-07-01159-7. Google Scholar
[9]	A. Constantin and W. Strauss, Pressure beneath a Stokes wave,, Communications in Pure and Applied Mathematics, 63 (2010), 533. doi: 10.1002/cpa.20299. Google Scholar
[10]	B. V. Divinsky, B. V. Levin, L. I. Lopatikhin, E. N. Pelinovsky and A. V. Slyungaev, A freak wave in the Black sea: Observations and simulation,, Doklady, 395* (2004), 438. Google Scholar*
[11]	W. Dudley and M. Lee, Tsunami, 2nd edition, page 97,, University of Hawaii Press, (1998). Google Scholar
[12]	M. D. Earle, Extreme wave conditions during Hurricane Camille,, Journal of Geophysical Research, 80 (1975), 377. Google Scholar
[13]	K. Freeze, Monster waves threaten rescue helicopters,, in Proceedings of US Naval Institute, (): 246. Google Scholar
[14]	D. M. Graham, NOAA vessel swamped by rogue wave,, 284 (2000). The quote may also be found at , 284 (2000). Google Scholar
[15]	Y. S. Gutshabash and I. V. Lavrenov, Swell transformation in the Cape Agulhas current,, Izvestiya, 22 (1986), 494. Google Scholar
[16]	D. E. Irvine and D. G. Tilley, Ocean wave directional spectra and wave-current interaction in the Agulhas from the shuttle imaging radar-B synthetic aperture radar,, Journal of Geophysical Research, 93 (1988), 15389. Google Scholar
[17]	R. S. Johnson, A Modern Introduction to the Mathematical Theory of Water Waves,, Cambridge Univ. Press, (1988). doi: 10.1017/CBO9780511624056. Google Scholar
[18]	B. B. Kadomtsev and V. I. Petviashvili, On the stability of solitary waves in weakly dispersive media,, Sov. Phys. Dokl, 15 (1970), 539. Google Scholar
[19]	M. Kovalyov and I. Bica, Some properties of slowly decaying oscillatory solutions of KP,, Chaos, 25 (2005), 1979. doi: 10.1016/j.chaos.2004.11.054. Google Scholar
[20]	K. Mallory, Abnormal waves on the south-east of South Africa,, Inst. Hydrog. Rev., 51 (1974), 89. Google Scholar
[21]	M. Maxted, Photo,, in Riptide, 176 (2010), 88. Google Scholar
[22]	N. Mori, P. C. Liun and T. Yasuda, Analysis of freak wave measurements in the sea of Japan,, Ocean Engineering, 29 (2002), 1399. Google Scholar
[23]	D. Mouaze, H. Chanson and B. Simon, Field Measurements in the tidal bore of the Selune River in the Bay of Mont Saint Michel (September 2010),, in Hydraulic Model Report No. CH81/10, (2010), 246. Google Scholar
[24]	P. Peterson, T. Soomere, J. Engelbreight and E. van Groesen, Soliton interaction as a possible model for extreme waves in shallow water,, Nonlin. Proc. Geophys, 10 (2003), 503. Google Scholar
[25]	C. Rip, Tip 2 Tip - Seven Ghosts,, 2011, (). Google Scholar
[26]	Riptide, Riptide Internet journal,, 2010, (). Google Scholar
[27]	J. H. Simpson, N. R. Fisher and P. Wiles, Reynolds stress and TKE production in an estuary with a tidal bore,, Estuarine, 60 (2004), 619. Google Scholar
[28]	Videos, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AC2UXYK65Tc&feature=related,, 2010, (). Google Scholar
[29]	E. Wolanski, D. Williams, S. Spagnol and H. Chanson, Undular tidal bore dynamics in the daly estuary,, Estuarine, 60 (2004), 629. doi: 10.1016/j.ecss.2004.03.001. Google Scholar

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